Modern charging bricks are small computers packed with circuitry to protect your devices from problems while charging. If you stick to reputable brands, they should be of good quality, and that’s why we haven’t done anything. has been considering the charger for a while.
Matching the specifications to the needs of your device is the smallest part when looking for a new charger, as the certification and protection scheme is more important than USB Power Delivery is currently the prevailing standard. While paying attention to the specifications, search actual testing of chargers to find the ones that fit their marketing.
Not all chargers are the same
A deal may force you to pay later
Don’t put every device charger on your expensive device, it’s not worth plugging it into the wall. Properly designed chargers will also be properly tested and certified and will output the watts they say they will.
Another thing is to roll the dice with your devices and security. Cheap chargers can fry your device or, at worst, set your house on fire. That’s why I try to avoid no-name chargers and recommend sticking to name brands and OEM versions if possible. I learned my lesson the hard way and I don’t want anyone else to suffer losing devices to shoddy charging methods.
Basic charger concepts you should be aware of
Features, certifications and other important facts
Let’s dispel a charging myth. Connecting your device to a USB charger rated for more watts won’t hurt. This is because the devices negotiate what they draw, the charger is not the responsible part of the equation.
Determined by chargers voltage (V), current (A) and power (W= V x A). USB-C and most mobile devices use the 5–20V range, while USB Power Delivery 3.1 extends it to 48V (for 240W charging).
However, overvoltage can kill your devices and that’s why you need quality chargers with overvoltage protection (OVP). You also need over current protection (OCP), short circuit protection (SCP), over temperature protection (OTP) and under voltage protection/lockout (UVP/UVLO). Each of these should be on a quality charger, and cheap devices often leave one (or more) out of the group.
Without certification, none of the other specifications matter. You want your charger to be USB-C PD (PD 3.1 at 240W) certified and also note Programmable Power Supply (PPS) for best efficiency and heat management. Be suspicious of any charger that says watts without PD and PPS.
You also want to search USB-IF certificate. These are logos like the one above that tell you the wattage and data transfer rates, and are often printed on the USB connector on the charger or cables. Filtering to look for these, especially those above 100W, is the easiest way to avoid buying junk.
GaN and “normal” chargers
stands for GaN Galium Nitride, a more efficient semiconductor that switches faster and runs cooler, so you get the same charging power but in a smaller package. This does not immediately mean saferbecause other design considerations control it, but sticking with well-known brands is wise for reliability over time.
Despite what the companies want you to believe, GaN makes the most sense Above 65 Where you can make multi-port chargers that are small and portable, perfect for traveling or sticking in your bag to charge your PC game console and phone. 15-30W GaN chargers are hardly an improvement over the older type, but may be a more cost-effective option over time.
Important features against marketing noise
One of the most important things to look out for is the specifications total and watts per port. This is what keeps pushing me, because you can have a 100W charger like the one pictured above, but if you use it, it’s only 100W. a portwhile using you get 45W each of both ports.
Then it’s PD version, PPS, etc. It is a task to search for supported protocols such as; safety protections and regional safety marks such as USB-IF certifications (if for USB charger) and UL.
Random claims like any other word x times faster or AI filling mostly fluffy and small wattage (45W or less) GaN chargers where size and heat are never a limiting factor. GaN comes into its own above 65W where size matters.
What to pay attention to according to the device class
Not every charger is suitable for every device
Although you can use the same USB-PD adapter for each of your devices, it is good to know the characteristics of each category if you want to better meet their needs. Having one or two higher-powered chargers with multiple ports is great for travel, but it limits your power to a single area when you’re at home, and I like having multiple chargers for everything in case one goes missing.
Laptops
For laptop chargers, it depends on whether your laptop uses USB-C or a dedicated connector. If the latter, stick to the OEM charger and buy a spare. I have literally been burned by third parties and will no longer recommend them.
Also, match (or better) the power of the laptop’s specifications. This gives it some headroom when drawing electricity and allows the charger to work less and generate less heat.
It should also support the correct PD/EPR profile for the desired wattage. For example, 20V at 5A for a total of 100W or 28-48V profiles for 140-240W PD 3.1. And above 100W, cable selection is critical. This need Be a 5A e-marked cable rated for 240W, otherwise you may cause damage.
Phones and small tablets
In general, you want a USB-C PD with PPS to give you the greatest controlled compatibility and fast charging behavior. Qualcomm QC is almost out of the market, but you may have an older device that needs it.
If you have a OnePlus or other device with dedicated fast charging, stick to OEM chargers. Otherwise, you can get almost any charger with 20-45W per port. Most USB-C cables can handle under 15W, but for anything higher, you’ll want e-marked, properly rated cables.
Game consoles and handheld devices
like PC gaming handhelds Steam Deck (45W) and ROG Xbox Ally X (65W) they are essentially small laptops and should be treated the same for their charging needs. Use PD compatible chargers and you’ll be fine. Game controllers and headphones are fine with any USB-A or USB-C 5V port from decent chargers.
If you have a Nintendo Switch, stick to official chargers or those specifically marked as compatible, as the charging features on the first console are slightly different than normal for USB-C. The Nintendo Switch 2 is different and you can use any charger that properly complies with PD regulations.
How to stay safe
Regardless of which charger you use
I’ll say it again, cheap chargers are not worth it. For higher wattage chargers, stick to reputable brands that display genuine USB-IF logos. Anything less and you run the risk of this happening without basic protection schemes in place. Size your charger to about 30% to 40% of your maximum power consumption, so you would use a 100W charger for a 65W laptop. This increases reliability and reduces thermal stress.
Cables are another thing you need to watch out for. We all have a drawer full of old USB cables and it’s time to throw them away. Especially with visible damage or kinks, but it’s safer to start over. For anything below 60W, stick to decent branded cables, but for 100W+, you need e-marked 5A cables with visible 100-240W or 240W logos, and they should be from reputable brands.
When charging, it is good if the charging brick heats up. If you can’t touch it because of the heat or if you smell an unpleasant smell, unplug it and throw it away. Keep the charger visible while charging, and if you notice a drop in charge, humming noises, or any other oddity, it’s time to replace that charger.
Cheap chargers are not worth the hassle
Look, we all love a deal. Sometimes this deal comes with strings attached and buying cheap chargers is one of those times. At best, you’ll end up with an incompatible charger because it won’t provide the right amount of power to your device. At worst, it could damage your device or cause a fire. It’s not worth the stress. Stick to well-known brands, check for all the safety marks that prove they’ve been tested, and download safely, even if the manufacturing processes aren’t flawless.
