The build board is the platform on which all of your 3D prints are created. However, like filaments and nozzles, construction plates do not last forever and eventually need to be replaced.
Mounting plates are consumables
Most printers now come with polyetherimide (PEI) coated build plates. It was chosen for its durability, heat resistance and adhesive properties that help the filament adhere and make marks that are easy to remove. You can think of it as the surface of a slightly non-stick pan.
Over time, the surface begins to erode. This can be visible wear like scratches and gouges or discoloration. Some beds can crack (glass) and warp (metal) or warp from misuse. If the 3D printer itself hits the bed too hard, it can damage the bed, which is probably a sign that you need to calibrate your printer (and check the head for damage, too, maybe).
The good news is that structural boards should last thousands of hours before they need to be replaced, unless you have an accident and prematurely age them first. The cost of replacement can vary depending on what printer you have and what you are replacing the bed with.
To replace textured PEI build plate It comes with a Bambu Lab printer, which will cost you at least $21. To replace smooth PEI printing sheet Comes with the Prusa Core ONE+, you’ll pay $42. third-party replacements from a brand such as Dark moon It costs more because it is aimed at hobbyists who want better results than stock boards.
How to tell if the mounting plate needs to be replaced
The most obvious sign that your mounting plate needs replacing is visible signs of damage or wear. Although PEI plates can be used even with gouges or peeling surfaces, if the plate is starting to look beat up, it’s a good sign that a replacement will soon be on the cards.
Another, less visible symptom is that no matter what you try, things just don’t stay on your build board. You don’t always need noticeable damage to the board for this to happen, but when it finally does, you’ll likely have thousands of hours of print time.
Many build plates are actually double-sided, meaning that once you start having problems, you can simply flip them over and print for another few thousand hours. The main thing is to keep track of which side!
Try this before replacing your mounting plate
The setup is to clear your board something you have to do every few prints. You should get into the habit of doing this before starting large prints that take hours to complete and risk a lot of filament loss, or prints that have limited contact with the build plate and can slip easily.
The best solution for this is hot water and washing-up liquid (brands such as Dawn, Fairy Liquid and cheap supermarket equivalents). Use a clean sponge with no scrubbing kit on it and the hottest water you can stand without burning yourself. Dry the mounting plate with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Do not use the same sponge and cloth that you would use for washing dishes, as you risk transferring cooking oil to the construction plate. You should try it too Avoid getting your fingerprints all over the build boardbecause the oil will seep through your digits and prevent adhesion.
Many 3D printer owners turn to PVA glue sticks to provide the first layer of adhesive. This is especially useful when working with more difficult materials such as ABS or TPU (the latter can stick to the bed a little better).
Choosing the right building board for you
There’s a reason why most 3D printer manufacturers include a basic PEI build plate in the box. It’s a reliable all-rounder, ideal for working with everything from PLA to more challenging filaments covering materials such as wood, glass and carbon fibre. PEI sheets are relatively inexpensive, so it’s a good idea to keep one around at all times.
You may also be interested in more specialized construction boards such as cool boards with improved adhesion in mind, engineering boards designed for high temperature engineering threads, smooth construction boards (like glass) that provide a glossy finish, and patterned construction boards.
These may come with their own discretion. For example, the temperature difference between a hot filament and a cold plate can cause warping and lifting, whereas a glass plate provides an effective finish at the cost of adhesion.
Choice is never a bad thing, but unless you’re into custom filaments and finishes, you can’t go far wrong with the PEI gold standard.
In addition to building tiles, did you know? your printer’s PTFE tubing will also need to be replaced?
